Broom Finish
The classic. A stiff brush drawn across the surface after the bull float gives you a consistent ridged texture with the best slip resistance of any finish. Lowest cost, highest durability, and easy to keep clean.
Entertaining slabs, pool decks, and outdoor kitchens — poured so water drains away from your house, not toward it.
A good backyard patio is one you use four seasons out of four — cookouts in July, fire pit in October, hot tub in February. For that to happen, the slab has to be big enough for what you really do out there, tied into the house at the right elevation, and pitched correctly so you're not chasing puddles off the surface every time it rains.
We've built concrete patios for homes all over Schaumburg and the surrounding suburbs. The calls we get most often: tired 15x15 slabs from the 1980s that are too small for a modern grill setup, cracked aggregate patios that have gone beyond repair, or brand-new builds where the homeowner wants a clean slate before the landscaper starts. Every one of those jobs gets walked on-site before we quote a dollar figure.
A patio isn't a driveway. It doesn't need to handle vehicle loads, so we can get more creative with finishes and shapes — but it has to drain, it has to tie into the house cleanly, and it has to survive the same Illinois winters. Our process is built around all three.
You don't have to pick between "plain gray" and "paver look." There's a range of finishes for a poured slab, and each one has different cost, maintenance, and aesthetic tradeoffs. Here's what we actually build, not just what's in a brochure:
The classic. A stiff brush drawn across the surface after the bull float gives you a consistent ridged texture with the best slip resistance of any finish. Lowest cost, highest durability, and easy to keep clean.
A surface retarder holds back the top paste while the slab below sets. Rinsed off the next morning, it reveals the decorative stone mixed into the top layer. Beautiful, grippy even when wet, and hides stains better than a broom finish.
Pigment added to the concrete at the plant so the color runs all the way through the slab, not just on the surface. Scratches don't reveal a different color underneath. Common choices: sand, buff, charcoal, terra cotta.
A dry-shake color hardener broadcast onto the fresh pour, worked in with the float, then a contrasting release agent before stamping. Gives you richer, more dimensional color than integral alone — the basis for most stamped finishes.
Flagstone, ashlar slate, European fan, wood plank, cobblestone. Tooled into the slab while the concrete is still at the right plasticity. See our stamped concrete page for patterns and details.
Diamond-blade cuts in a grid, circle, or custom layout after the slab has set. Creates the look of large tiles without the stamping cost. Often combined with integral color for a clean, modern look.
Patios fail differently than driveways — usually from bad drainage or bad expansion joints at the house tie-in, not from the slab itself. Here's the spec we run every time:
The most common call. Homeowners want to upgrade from a small deck or undersized old patio to something that actually fits a dining table, a grill island, and a seating area. Usually 300–600 square feet with a broom or exposed aggregate finish.
Around an in-ground or above-ground pool. Slip resistance is critical, so we lean toward exposed aggregate or a heavy broom finish. Pitch drains away from the pool coping and from the house.
Thicker slab (5–6") to support built-in grill islands and stone veneer. We coordinate with the mason and the gas line installer to leave clean sleeves in the pour.
For yards that slope. We pour each level as its own slab with an expansion joint between them and a poured concrete stepdown. Looks intentional, drains correctly, and doesn't crack at the transition.
A poured slab is monolithic, so there's nothing to heave or settle independently. Pavers look great when they're brand new, but Illinois clay soils shift with freeze-thaw and pavers need re-leveling every few years unless the base was built perfectly from the start. Concrete is a one-time install. If it's spec'd right, you're done for 25+ years. Pavers you're fussing with for the life of the patio.
Light foot traffic after 24 hours — you can walk on it to bring the grill back out. Patio furniture and normal cookout use after 3 days. Hot tub, heavy planters, or anything that puts concentrated load on the slab should wait a full 28 days so the concrete is at its design strength. We'll tell you on-site exactly when each piece of outdoor gear can go back.
Yes, and it's worth doing. A penetrating silane/siloxane sealer every 3–4 years keeps deicing salt, grease from the grill, and ground moisture from soaking into the slab. Stamped or integrally colored patios need a more frequent film-forming sealer — usually every 2 years — to keep the color looking sharp and protect the stamped texture.
Yes — and how it's tied in matters a lot. We install a closed-cell foam expansion joint between the new slab and the foundation so the patio can flex independently without cracking the siding, stucco, or brick veneer. We also make sure the final elevation slopes away from the foundation at a minimum 1/4" per foot. Water running toward the basement wall is how small problems become big ones.
Broom (the standard, best slip resistance, lowest cost), exposed aggregate (decorative and grippy), integral color (pigment runs all the way through), color hardener with release (richer, more dimensional color), stamped patterns (flagstone, slate, cobblestone, wood plank), and saw-cut patterns (large tile look). We bring samples to the estimate so you can see what each one actually looks like in daylight, not just a brochure photo.
Free on-site estimate within 48 hours. We'll walk the yard with you, check drainage, measure for furniture layout, and leave you with a line-item quote and finish samples.
Call 847-610-6459 Request an Estimate